Auvergne

1. Clermont-Ferrand: Volcanic Capital with a Student Soul

I’ve lost count of the number of times I’ve arrived in Clermont-Ferrand by train at dusk. The approach is always the same: a sudden glimpse of the twin spires of the black cathedral, the dark line of the Puy de Dôme brooding behind, and a quick feeling that you’re entering an almost secret city.

Clermont-Ferrand is a working city — Michelin’s historic headquarters, a big university, a rugby-obsessed fan base — but it’s also where you’ll find the liveliest mix of bars, creative bistros, and culture in Auvergne. I usually recommend at least one night here at the beginning or end of a trip, both to get your bearings and to enjoy a bit of urban energy before heading into the hills.

Highlights & Things to Do

• Cathédrale Notre-Dame-de-l’Assomption — Built from dark lava stone, the Gothic cathedral seems to grow out of the basalt. Climb the tower (when open) for a first orientation over the city and Chaîne des Puys.
• Basilique Notre-Dame-du-Port — A UNESCO-listed Romanesque basilica, small, golden, and intimate. I like going at the beginning or end of the day when the interior is quiet and the capitals’ carvings feel almost alive.
• Place de Jaude — The city’s main square, busy with trams and terraces, dominated by a statue of Vercingetorix. Good for people-watching over a coffee or verre de vin.
• Old Town (Montferrand) — Often overlooked, this historic quarter is a separate, older core with narrow streets and Renaissance houses. I’ve had some of my best serendipitous evenings here.

Food & Drink

Clermont offers the broadest choice in Auvergne, from bistro modern to hearty traditional. Don’t miss:

• Traditional brasseries around Place de Jaude for truffade (potato and cheese skillet) and saucisse de choux.
• Wine bars pouring Saint-Pourçain and Côtes d’Auvergne by the glass; I like slipping into one after a day on the Puy de Dôme trails.

Getting There & Practical Tips

Clermont-Ferrand is the main transport hub: direct trains from Paris (~3.5–4 hours), Lyon (~2–2.5 hours), and Bordeaux (~5 hours). The airport has limited flights, mostly domestic or seasonal. It’s an ideal place to pick up a rental car; I usually book ahead and choose pickup at the train station to avoid airport transfers.

2. Puy de Dôme & Chaîne des Puys: Walking the Volcanoes

This is Auvergne’s postcard face and a UNESCO World Heritage site: a chain of 80 or so cinder cones, domes, and maars strung across the skyline west of Clermont. I’ve hiked here in July heat, in October fog, and once under a sudden June snow flurry. Every time, the same mixture of wildness and calm.

Puy de Dôme Summit

At 1,465 m, Puy de Dôme isn’t especially high, but its profile dominates the region. You have two main ways up:

• Panoramique des Dômes train — A cog railway that glides to the summit in about 15–20 minutes. It’s perfect for families or anyone with mobility issues. In peak season, reserve ahead online, especially for weekend afternoons.
• Chemin des Muletiers trail — A steep but straightforward 45–70 minute hike from the Col de Ceyssat. On my last trip, I walked up in the golden hour; the view over the chain of volcanoes in raking light felt almost unreal.

At the summit you’ll find remains of a Roman temple to Mercury, a visitor center, a restaurant, and a 360° panorama over the Limagne plain and the Chaîne des Puys. On clear days you can see the distant Sancy Massif.

Other Chaîne des Puys Walks

• Puy Pariou — A near-perfect crater with a photogenic bowl you can walk into. The trail is family-friendly but can be busy in summer; arrive before 9:00 or after 16:00.
• Puy de la Vache & Puy de Lassolas — Red-sand cinder cones with lunar landscapes. Less crowded, especially off weekends. I once watched a thunderstorm slide past here without a drop of rain — unforgettable.

Base yourself in Clermont-Ferrand, Orcines, or one of the small villages like Orcines or Laschamps for easy access.

3. Le Mont-Dore & Sancy Massif: Alpine Auvergne

Le Mont-Dore is where Auvergne starts to feel almost Alpine: steep valleys, waterfalls, ski lifts, and that particular mountain-town smell of wet pine and woodsmoke. I’ve stayed here in mid-winter for snowshoeing and hot chocolate, and again in late June when the snowline retreats and wildflowers colonize the slopes.

Things to Do

• Puy de Sancy — At 1,886 m, the highest peak of the Massif Central. In summer you can take a cable car from nearby Super-Besse or hike up on various routes. The last stretch is via wooden stairs; in 2026, trail maintenance has improved and signage is clearer than a few years ago.
• Waterfalls — The Cascade du Queureuilh and Cascade du Rossignolet are short, easy walks from town, good with kids.
• Spa heritage — Le Mont-Dore is a Belle Époque spa resort. Pop into the thermal baths (even just for a look at the architecture) or book a treatment.

My Favorite Moment

One September, I hiked early from Le Mont-Dore up toward the Col de la Croix-Morand. Mist hung in the valley, but as I climbed, it broke into rivers of cloud flowing between the ridges. I didn’t see another person for two hours, just a shepherd on a quad bike and a very self-important sheepdog.

4. Super-Besse & Lac Pavin: Lakes, Lava, and Family Adventures

Super-Besse is a purpose-built ski resort that, frankly, I find a bit charmless in architecture — but it’s superb as a family base, especially in winter and shoulder seasons, and it’s the launchpad for exploring Lac Pavin, one of Auvergne’s most intriguing crater lakes.

Lac Pavin

A nearly perfect circle, intensely deep and dark, Lac Pavin has collected legends from fishermen and hikers for centuries. In reality, it’s a meromictic lake with layers of water that don’t mix — which is why it has that unusual, almost inky blue. I like to walk the easy loop trail (about 45 minutes) in late afternoon, when the light filters through the beech forest and the water mirrors the trees.

Family-Friendly Activities

• Summer luge & bike trails at Super-Besse.
• Boat rental on nearby Lac Chambon (see below).
• Short volcano walks with interpretive panels explaining geology in kid-friendly terms.

5. Orcival & the Romanesque Heartland

Orcival is where I go when I need to slow down. It’s a small village cupped in a green valley, dominated by one of Auvergne’s most beautiful Romanesque churches, the Basilique Notre-Dame d’Orcival. I’ve sat on its front steps in drizzle, snow, and hot sun, always with the same feeling of deep calm.

Why Go

• The basilica — A masterpiece of Auvergnat Romanesque architecture, perfectly proportioned, with a famous Black Madonna statue inside.
• Nearby walks — Easy hikes fan out into the surrounding pastures and forests. I particularly like the loop up toward the plateau overlooking the village.

Orcival also makes a good quieter base for exploring the Chaîne des Puys and Sancy if you have a car.

6. Issoire & the Allier Valley

Issoire is often just a name on the A75 motorway exit signs for people speeding south toward Languedoc. It shouldn’t be. This small town, with its ochre roofs and plane-tree-lined squares, has a gentle charm and one of the most luminous churches in Auvergne.

Abbaye Saint-Austremoine

The abbey is a riot of polychrome capitals, striped arches, and painted details — more colorful than most Romanesque churches in the region. I remember walking in on a hot June afternoon, grateful for the cool nave, and standing under the crossing for a long time, tracing the patterns with my eyes.

Market & Local Life

The weekly market (usually Saturday) spills through the streets around the abbey: cheese stalls, cured meats, honey, and seasonal produce. It’s a good place to stock up if you’re self-catering in a gîte.

7. Saint-Nectaire: Cheese, Springs & Stone

Saint-Nectaire is synonymous with cheese — that supple, washed-rind disk that slides so perfectly onto a slice of country bread. The village itself is split in two: lower Saint-Nectaire with its old spa buildings and upper Saint-Nectaire crowned by a church that seems to hover over the valley.

Things to Do

• Visit a cheese farm — Many fermes around the village welcome visitors. I still remember the first time a farmer handed me a just-cut wedge of Saint-Nectaire fermier, still cool from the cellar, and insisted I eat it with nothing but my fingers and a grin.
• Église de Saint-Nectaire — Another beautiful Romanesque church, with sculpted capitals and views over the valley.
• Grotte du Cornadore — Ancient Roman thermal baths cut into the rock, a quirky and fascinating visit.

8. Salers & the Cantal Highlands

If I had to choose one village that captures the essence of Cantal, it would be Salers. Perched at around 950 m, built from dark volcanic stone, framed by high pastures and the pyramidal peaks of the Cantal range, it’s both dramatic and deeply rooted.

Village Atmosphere

Salers can be busy in high summer, but evenings and shoulder seasons are magical. On my last autumn visit in 2025, I spent a week here writing and hiking; each evening I would sit on the main square with a glass of Gentiane aperitif, watching the light drain from the mountains.

What to Eat

• Salers cheese — Hard, raw-milk, intense. Look for Salers Tradition, made only when the cows are grazing outside.
• Salers beef — Deeply flavored, often served as a simple entrecôte with truffade.

Outdoor Activities

• Hikes toward the Puy Mary massif (see below) and along high ridges.
• Scenic drives across the Plateau de Salers; in late May and June, it’s a tapestry of wildflowers and young calves.

9. Le Puy-en-Velay: Pilgrims, Needles of Rock, and Lace

Le Puy-en-Velay looks like something dreamed up by a slightly gothic illustrator: a cathedral on a volcanic outcrop, a chapel glued to a needle of rock, and a giant statue of the Virgin Mary surveying it all from yet another summit. It’s also one of the starting points of the Chemin de Saint-Jacques, the French Camino.

Highlights

• Cathédrale Notre-Dame — A UNESCO-listed beauty with striped arches and a dramatic staircase spilling down to town.
• Rocher Saint-Michel d’Aiguilhe — A chapel perched on a needle of volcanic rock. The climb is short but steep; best in the early morning before the heat and day-trippers.
• Pilgrim atmosphere — In the mornings, especially in spring and early autumn, you’ll see backpacked pilgrims setting out on the GR65 toward Conques.

I love arriving in Le Puy by late afternoon, climbing up through the old streets to catch sunset from the upper esplanades, then drifting back down for dinner on a shaded terrace.

10. Livradois-Forez & Ambert: Green, Gentle Auvergne

East of Clermont-Ferrand, the Livradois-Forez Regional Nature Park is a softer landscape: rolling hills, dense forests, woodworking villages, and small towns like Ambert that feel quietly self-contained. It’s where I go when I want to be away from even the modest tourist traffic of the volcanic core.

Ambert

Known for its circular town hall and Fourme d’Ambert blue cheese, Ambert is unpretentious and friendly. On my last visit, I rented a little stone house in a hamlet above the town; mornings were misty, afternoons full of bees and the sound of chainsaws in distant woods.

Activities

• Cheese visits — Cooperative dairies and small farms open for tours and tastings.
• Forest hikes & mountain biking — Well-marked trails, rarely crowded.
• Artisanal workshops — Looms, woodturning, and small galleries scattered across the park.

11. Thiers: Knives, Cliffs & Industrial Heritage

Thiers is not conventionally pretty — at least not at first glance. Perched above the narrow Durolle gorge, its old half-timbered houses seem to lean over the void, and former knife workshops cling to the cliffs. But if you’re interested in craft and industrial history, it’s one of the most fascinating towns in Auvergne.

Why Visit

• Cutlery museums & workshops — Thiers has been making knives for 700+ years. Today, you can visit museums and small coutelleries where artisans still grind blades by hand.
• Old town walks — Narrow lanes, stairways, and viewpoints over the gorge.

I once spent a rainy November day here, ducking from workshop to café, and came away with a pocketknife that now travels with me everywhere — my most-used Auvergne souvenir.

12. Aurillac & the Jordanne Valley

Aurillac is Cantal’s main town, a practical base ringed by hills. While the town itself is modest, its location is excellent for reaching the Jordanne valley, the Puy Mary area, and the southern Cantal plateaus.

Things to Do

• Stroll the old quarter — Stone houses, quiet squares, and a handful of good restaurants and wine bars.
• Vallée de la Jordanne — A lush valley cutting into the Cantal massif, with hiking trails and scenic viewpoints.

Aurillac also hosts a famous street-theatre festival each August, when the town transforms into a giant open-air stage (see Events section).

13. Murat & the Plomb du Cantal

Murat is one of my favorite Cantal bases: a compact town wedged between volcanic outcrops, with easy rail access and quick drives up to the high country. The peaks of the Cantal massif rise almost immediately behind it.

Outdoor Focus

• Plomb du Cantal — One of the major peaks, accessible by trail or, in winter, lifts from Lioran ski station.
• Village walks — Climb up to the Chapel of Saint Antoine for views over Murat and the valley.

I’ve based myself here twice in winter; mornings were spent snowshoeing along the ridges, afternoons writing in a café with a view of the rock outcrops glowing orange at sunset.

14. Brioude & the Upper Allier

Brioude sits on the upper Allier river in Haute-Loire and feels almost Mediterranean on hot summer days: colorful facades, café terraces, and a basilica with an unexpectedly airy interior.

Key Sights

• Basilique Saint-Julien — The largest Romanesque church in Auvergne, with patterned stonework and beautiful stained glass.
• Allier riverbanks — Perfect for lazy walks or a picnic, especially in late spring.

It’s a good stop if you’re driving between Le Puy-en-Velay and Clermont-Ferrand via the more scenic interior routes.

15. Vichy: Belle Époque Elegance & Thermal Waters

Vichy, in the Allier département, has complicated history but undeniable grace. Its parks, Art Deco pavilions, and riverside promenades make it a lovely detour if you’re circling north Auvergne.

What to Do

• Stroll the Parc des Sources — Thermal pavilions, bandstands, and old hotels.
• Taste the waters — At the thermal kiosks, you can sample various mineral waters (some are an acquired taste).
• Riverside walks — Along the Allier, especially at sunset.

I like Vichy as a gentle urban pause in a mostly rural itinerary, especially on shoulder-season trips.

16. Saint-Flour & the Margeride Plateau

Saint-Flour is dramatically perched on a volcanic promontory above the valley, its cathedral square opening onto a sheer drop. It feels remote, even by Auvergne standards, and I mean that as a compliment.

Why Go

• Upper town — Narrow lanes, stone houses, and views over the Planèze plateau.
• Nearby Garabit viaduct — Designed by Eiffel, spanning the Truyère river in a graceful arc of iron.

I remember arriving here one cold October evening, fog wrapped around the town like wool, and waking up to a sky so clear the plateau seemed endless.

17. Gorges de l’Allier: Wild River Country

The Allier river carves a sinuous, untamed course between Langeac and Brioude, with cliffs, forests, and tiny hamlets clinging to the banks. It’s one of my favorite places in Auvergne to feel properly “away.”

Activities

• White-water rafting & kayaking — Spring and early summer are best, when water levels are higher.
• Train line — A scenic local train still runs along parts of the gorge; sitting by the window as you twist along the river feels like stepping back in time.
• Hiking — Sections of the GR470 follow the river.

18. Lac Chambon & Murol: Lakeside Castle Country

For families, Lac Chambon is one of the best bases in Auvergne: a swimmable lake with small beaches, pedal boats, and ice cream stands, framed by the Sancy peaks. Just above it, the ruined castle of Murol commands the valley.

Things to Do

• Lake activities — Swimming, kayaking, paddle-boarding in summer. Safe for kids, with lifeguards on the main beach in high season.
• Château de Murol — A dramatically-sited fortress with costumed tours and evening shows in summer — excellent for children and still fun for adults.
• Walks — Easy lakeside strolls and low-effort viewpoints.

I spent a week here in July 2024 with friends and their two small children. Days fell into an easy rhythm of morning excursions into the Sancy, lazy afternoons at the lake, and early dinners on a terrace watching the castle catch the last light.

4 Day Itinerary for Auvergne: Volcanic Highlights

If you have just 4 days in Auvergne, focus on the core volcanic landscapes around Clermont-Ferrand and the Sancy massif. This is the itinerary I usually suggest to first-time visitors who tell me they “don’t like to rush but don’t want to miss the must-see attractions.”

Day 1: Clermont-Ferrand & First Glimpse of the Volcanoes

Arrive in Clermont-Ferrand by late morning or early afternoon. Drop your bags at your hotel near the center; I prefer staying within walking distance of Place de Jaude or the cathedral to avoid dealing with parking.

Spend the afternoon wandering the old town. Step into the black-stone cathedral, then descend to the Romanesque basilica of Notre-Dame-du-Port. Let yourself get lost in the lanes between them; stop at a café for a café crème and indulge in people-watching.

As afternoon shadows lengthen, ride the tram or walk to a viewpoint like Montjuzet Park for your first panorama of the Chaîne des Puys. It’s here, on a mild April evening in 2023, that I watched storm clouds roll behind the Puy de Dôme while the city glowed briefly golden — the contrast between wild and urban summed up the region perfectly.

Dinner: choose a bistro that leans into local food in Auvergne: salade auvergnate with blue cheese and walnuts, charcuterie, and a glass of red Côtes d’Auvergne. Sleep in Clermont.

Day 2: Puy de Dôme & Chaîne des Puys

Have an early breakfast; today is about the must-see attractions in Auvergne’s volcanic chain.

• Morning: Drive or take a shuttle to the Panoramique des Dômes base station. If you enjoy hiking and are reasonably fit, I strongly recommend walking up the Chemin des Muletiers and taking the train down. Start by 8:30–9:00 to beat both heat and crowds.
• Summit time: At the top, walk the circular trail for 360° views. On clear days, the entire Chaîne des Puys and even the distant Sancy massif are visible. Visit the Mercury temple ruins and small exhibits.
• Lunch: Simple picnic at the summit (there are designated areas), or eat at the café if weather is poor.
• Afternoon: Drive to the Puy Pariou trailhead. Hike the loop that drops into the crater; it’s one of the best places to viscerally understand you’re walking inside an extinct volcano.

Return to Clermont in late afternoon. If your legs still cooperate, a glass of wine on a terrace near Place de Jaude is well-earned.

Day 3: Sancy Massif – Le Mont-Dore & Lac Chambon

Pick up a rental car in Clermont this morning if you haven’t already. Drive about an hour to Le Mont-Dore via Orcines and the Col de Guéry — a route I never tire of, especially in autumn when the beech forests are copper and gold.

Park in Le Mont-Dore and choose your adventure:

• For hikers: Follow a marked trail toward the Sancy area (there are circuits of various lengths; the tourist office is very helpful). Even a modest 2–3 hour loop will give you sweeping views.
• For families or relaxed travelers: Take the cable car (seasonal) from the nearby station (Super-Besse side or Sancy lifts, depending on operations in 2026) for high views with minimal effort.

In mid-afternoon, drive to Lac Chambon. Swim or rent a pedal boat if it’s warm, or simply walk the lakeside path. Visit Château de Murol for a dash of medieval drama, especially fun if you catch one of the costumed shows. Overnight in a lakeside hotel or gîte; the evening calm here is heavenly.

Day 4: Saint-Nectaire & Return via Issoire

After breakfast by the lake, drive to Saint-Nectaire (about 15–20 minutes). Visit a cheese farm for a tasting and short explanation of how the famous rounds are made. Pop up to the Romanesque church for valley views.

Continue toward Issoire, detouring through small villages if you like scenic meanders. Stop in Issoire for lunch and a visit to the colorful abbey. From here it’s a straightforward drive back to Clermont-Ferrand or on to your next destination.

This 4 day itinerary for Auvergne covers the most iconic landscapes without feeling impossibly rushed, especially if you’re comfortable with a bit of driving.

5 Day Itinerary for Auvergne: Volcanoes, Villages & Views

With 5 days in Auvergne, you can keep the volcanic core and add a taste of Cantal’s highlands or Le Puy-en-Velay’s unique skyline. Here’s a version that many of my readers have followed (and loved).

Day 1–3: As per 4-Day Itinerary

Follow Days 1–3 above, but consider staying a second night at Lac Chambon or Le Mont-Dore to slow the pace: more time for hot springs, forest walks, or just sitting in a café watching mountain weather roll through.

Day 4: Orcival & Country Roads

From your Sancy base, take a looping drive through the countryside:

• Stop in Orcival to see the basilica and stroll the village.
• Picnic on a roadside verge overlooking patchwork fields; this is the Auvergne of cheese labels and childhood storybooks.
• Optionally detour via the Lac de Guéry viewpoint.

End the day back in Clermont-Ferrand or in a countryside chambre d’hôtes near Orcival or Orcines.

Day 5: Le Puy-en-Velay or Salers (Choose Your Flavor)

With one extra day you can choose between:

• Le Puy-en-Velay (cultural & historic) — Drive 2–2.5 hours from Clermont. Spend the day exploring the cathedral, volcanic pinnacles, and old town. Overnight, then depart next morning.
• Salers (mountain village & cheese) — Drive about 3 hours from Clermont. Wander the village, sample Salers cheese and beef, and, if time allows, do a short hike on the plateau.

I lean toward Le Puy for first-timers interested in cultural experiences in Auvergne, and Salers for hikers or committed cheese lovers.

6 Day Itinerary for Auvergne: Deep Volcanoes & Cantal Highlands

Six days in Auvergne lets you experience both the Chaîne des Puys/Sancy and the wilder Cantal range without too much hurry. This 6 day itinerary for Auvergne is loosely based on a June 2022 trip I took with a friend who had never been before; watching them fall for the region day by day was a joy.

Day 1–3: Clermont-Ferrand & Volcano Core

Follow Days 1–3 of the 4-day plan, but I suggest:

• 2 nights in Clermont-Ferrand
• 1–2 nights in the Sancy area (Le Mont-Dore or Lac Chambon)

Day 4: Transition to Cantal via the Cézallier Plateau

Instead of the motorway, take the slower, stunning route south-west via the Cézallier plateau, sometimes called “Auvergne’s little Mongolia” for its rolling, treeless expanses.

We left Lac Chambon after an early swim, drove through Besse and the Cézallier, stopping whenever the cows and views demanded (often). The road undulates across open country, with almost no traffic. Pack a picnic; there are few services, and that’s the point.

By late afternoon, drop into the Cantal valleys and continue to Salers or Aurillac for the night.

Day 5: Puy Mary & Cantal Peaks

Dedicate this day to the Puy Mary area, one of the most dramatic landscapes in the Massif Central.

• Drive to the Pas de Peyrol pass (beware narrow, winding roads; not ideal for very nervous drivers).
• Climb the short but steep path to the Puy Mary summit. Even on cloudy days, the radiating ridges give a sense of the ancient super-volcano that shaped this region.
• Hike a ridge trail if you have energy, or descend and drive one of the signed “Route des Montagnes” scenic routes.

Families can still enjoy this day with shorter walks and roadside viewpoints; bring layers, as weather on the passes changes fast.

Day 6: Salers & Return or Onward

Use your last day for a slow morning in Salers — coffee on the square, a stroll around the walls, maybe a last cheese shop raid. After lunch, begin your return toward Clermont-Ferrand (~3 hours) or onward to your next destination.

This 6 days in Auvergne route is a superb compromise between breadth and depth, and works well by rental car.

7 Day Itinerary for Auvergne: A Week Inside the Volcanoes

A 7 day itinerary for Auvergne is, in my view, ideal. You can explore the major ranges, linger in villages, and still have time for markets, long lunches, and spontaneous detours — the things that make travel here special.

Day 1: Arrival in Clermont-Ferrand

Settle in as described earlier; perhaps add a visit to the modern art museum or a rugby match if ASM Clermont Auvergne are playing at home — an intense cultural experience in its own right.

Day 2: Chaîne des Puys (Full Day)

Devote the entire day to volcano hikes and viewpoints: Puy de Dôme, Puy Pariou, and, if time, the red cones of Puy de la Vache. Pack snacks and plenty of water; shade is scarce on the ridges.

Day 3: Lac Chambon & Murol

Transfer to Lac Chambon for a softer day: castle visit, lake time, and a gentle evening. Families will appreciate this break between hiking-heavy days.

Day 4: Sancy High Country from Le Mont-Dore

Drive to Le Mont-Dore, ride lifts if operating, and spend a full day on the Sancy slopes. If you’re adventurous, choose one of the longer ridge hikes; if not, there are plenty of mid-level trails.

Day 5: Orcival & Country Stay

Relocate to a rural guesthouse near Orcival, Saint-Nectaire, or on the road toward Issoire. This is your chance to experience agritourism in Auvergne: dinners made from garden and farm, evenings under impossible stars.

Day 6: Le Puy-en-Velay or Thiers/Vichy Combo

With a car, you can make a day trip to:

• Le Puy-en-Velay — Long but doable day, better as an overnight if you can stretch; or
• Thiers & Vichy — Knife workshops in the morning, Belle Époque strolls in the afternoon, then back to your base.

Day 7: Market Morning & Slow Farewell

Reserve your last morning for a local market — Issoire, Ambert, or a Clermont neighborhood market if you’ve looped back. This is the best moment to stock up on cheese, lentils from Le Puy, honey, and cured meats.

Afternoon: drive back to Clermont-Ferrand, return your rental car, and catch an evening train. On my most recent week-long stay, I did exactly this, ending with a paper-wrapped wedge of Saint-Nectaire and a small bottle of gentiane tucked into my bag, smelling faintly of hay all the way back to Paris.