Malerweg Trail

Leg 1 – Pirna-Liebethal to Wehlen: Into the Sandstone

I always start my Malerweg journeys with a coffee in Pirna’s market square. Pirna is your gentle on-ramp to the wildness ahead: cobbled streets, pastel Renaissance facades, and the feeling that the Elbe is quietly waiting around the corner.

In 2025 I arrived on a misty September morning, the kind where the church spires fade into a watercolor sky. After dropping a small bag at my guesthouse (I often base here if I’m not thru-hiking) I took the bus up to Liebethal, the official Malerweg trailhead.

Liebethal & the Liebethaler Grund

The Liebethaler Grund is a shady sandstone gorge where the Wesenitz River has carved its way through rock – a whispering prelude before the grand Elbe vistas. It’s also your first encounter with the region’s Romantic history: huge boulders, moss-draped walls, and a giant Richard Wagner monument that always takes newcomers by surprise.

This first valley is ideal if you’re hiking with kids or less experienced walkers. The path is gentle, and there are frequent spots to sit on a log and listen to the river. One July afternoon I watched a family from Hamburg coax their reluctant teenager into the Malerweg with the promise of ice cream in Wehlen; by the second day he was the one walking ahead, hunting for the next viewpoint.

Food tip: Pack a simple picnic – bread, local cheese, apples – from Pirna. There’s something deeply right about eating on a riverside boulder here.

Approaching Wehlen: First Elbe Views

The Malerweg climbs out of the gorge and undulates through forest and fields before dipping towards the Elbe. The first time I saw Wehlen from above, the sunlight broke through just as the church tower came into view – a postcard moment that felt almost staged.

Wehlen itself is tiny: a riverside promenade, a few cafes, an ice cream stand that seems permanently queued in summer, and the river ferry. It’s an ideal first overnight if you’re following a 10- to 14-leg itinerary, keeping opening distances short.

My ritual is a late-afternoon coffee and cake at a riverside café, boots off, toes quietly rejoicing. Try the Eierschecke (a layered Saxon cheesecake) or a simple slice of Apfelkuchen. For dinner, gasthofs here usually offer solid classics: schnitzel, trout from the Elbe, and vegetarian options like Käsespätzle.

Family-friendly: Easy day, lots of water, short ferry rides – perfect for kids’ first “big hike.”

Romantic: The Elbe at dusk, when the day-trippers have gone, is quietly magical.

Leg 2 – Wehlen to Hohnstein via the Bastei: The Iconic Crown of Malerweg

If you’ve seen one photo of Saxon Switzerland, it’s almost certainly of the Bastei Bridge: a stone causeway leaping between sandstone pinnacles high above the Elbe. Leg 2 is where the Malerweg shows you why painters went wild here in the 18th century – and why Instagrammers do the same now.

Climbing from Rathen to Bastei

From Wehlen you follow the river, often hopping a short train or ferry section depending on your itinerary, to Rathen. This village is one of the must-see attractions in Malerweg Trail: half fairytale, half base camp. Timbered houses cluster around a small lake, and on summer evenings locals and hikers drift towards the outdoor Felsenbühne Rathen (rock stage), where operas and plays are performed against a backdrop of lit sandstone cliffs.

The climb to Bastei from Rathen is short but steep – carved rock stairs, railings, and views that widen with every switchback. On my last visit in 2025, I started pre-dawn with a headlamp and a thermos of coffee; arriving at the top as the first light spilled into the Elbe valley was one of those rare moments where your careful planning actually pays off.

Tip: Bastei is popular. To avoid crowds, aim to arrive before 9:00 in peak season (May–September) or late in the afternoon. Early mornings are best for photography and quiet.

Bastei Bridge & Viewpoints

The Bastei complex now includes managed viewpoints, safety railings, and some sections with small entrance fees – changes that have been expanding gradually through 2024–2026 to protect the fragile rock. Don’t let the infrastructure put you off: the views are still utterly wild.

From the main viewpoints, you’ll see:

• The Elbe snaking between Rathen and Wehlen
• The table mountains of Lilienstein and Königstein in the distance
• Sheer sandstone towers dropping away below your feet

On a clear day you can spot climbers inching up narrow spires. Locals call them Felsensportler with a mixture of admiration and bewilderment.

Across the Woods to Hohnstein

Leaving Bastei, the trail dives into forests and quieter side valleys – a welcome reset after the crowds. The path to Hohnstein rolls over ridges and dips into mossy gullies, with occasional sandstone outcrops acting as unadvertised viewpoints.

Hohnstein itself is a small town perched on a rocky spur, dominated by its castle. In 2023 I stayed at a guesthouse just below the fortress and woke to fog spilling through the valley like a slow river. Hohnstein makes a good overnight for any version of a 7 leg itinerary for Malerweg Trail or a slower 10- to 14-leg plan: there are a couple of good restaurants, a bakery, and a sense of being properly in the hills now.

Food: Try Sauerbraten (marinated roast) or local game dishes in autumn. Vegetarians can usually count on hearty soups, potato dishes, and salads.

Leg 3 – Hohnstein to Bad Schandau via Brand Viewpoint & Waitzdorf

This leg feels like driving a scenic ridge road: long views, occasional plunges into side valleys, and cafés right at the edge of the drop. The Brand viewpoint – sometimes called the “balcony of Saxon Switzerland” – is one of my non-negotiables whenever I’m guiding friends here.

Brand Viewpoint: Balcony of Saxon Switzerland

The forest path from Hohnstein gradually narrows and brightens until, suddenly, the trees open and there’s nothing in front of you but air. The Brand terrace juts out over a deep valley, with the Elbe valley and table mountains layered beyond like cardboard cutouts.

There’s a restaurant right on the edge; in 2025 they were still doing a reliable mix of Saxon classics and lighter dishes, plus good cake. I love coming here in shoulder seasons, when you can sit outside without the midsummer crush and watch ravens ride the thermals.

Tip: This is a perfect mid-morning or early-afternoon “fuel stop.” On very hot days, linger until the worst heat passes.

Waitzdorf & the Quiet Villages

Beyond Brand, the Malerweg meanders through fields and small villages like Waitzdorf, where farmhouses sit in wide meadows. It’s not dramatic in the way of Bastei or Schrammsteine, but it’s the kind of landscape you remember on winter days: the sound of cowbells, the smell of cut hay, the church tower on the horizon.

I once took a detour here with an older couple from Berlin who preferred gentle walking. We followed a side loop that added only a few kilometers but gave us long, lazy views over the Elbe sandstone plateau – a great option for a 12 or 13 leg itinerary for Malerweg Trail when you can afford slower days.

Descent to Bad Schandau

Eventually the trail drops back towards the Elbe, emerging above Bad Schandau, the de facto capital of Saxon Switzerland. I treat Bad Schandau like a road-tripper treats a reliable highway town: a place to rest, resupply, soak, and perhaps, for a day, do absolutely nothing ambitious.

The town has:

• A proper supermarket and outdoor shops (useful for resupplying if you underestimated your appetite).
• Thermal baths (Toskana Therme) where hikers float like happy starfishes under soft lights.
• A riverside promenade and several hotels and guesthouses in all price ranges.

If you’re traveling with kids or anyone who needs a break, I strongly recommend building a rest night here into any 8, 9, 10 or 11 legs of Malerweg Trail plan. One of my favorite Malerweg days in 2022 involved nothing but a slow breakfast, laundry, a few hours at the spa, and a gentle evening walk along the river.

Leg 4 – Bad Schandau to Schrammsteine & Affensteine: The Wild Heart

This is the day that turns Malerweg from “pretty river walk” into “serious adventure.” The Schrammsteine and Affensteine massifs are intricate tangles of rock towers, ladders, narrow ridges, and secret passages. Think of it as driving a mountain pass with hairpin bends, except your car is your balance and your knees.

Schrammsteine: Ladders and Ridges

The climb from Bad Schandau via the Schrammsteinweg is a steady ascent through forest until the first metal staircases appear, clinging to the rock. The first time I led friends up here, there was a quiet gasp as we emerged onto a narrow ridge with sheer drops on both sides and a sea of sandstone towers spreading out beneath us.

If you’re not comfortable with heights, you can choose the slightly less airy variant routes; signposts are good, and in 2025 the national park authority added clearer warning signs on the more exposed ladders. That said, for those who enjoy some adrenaline, this is the highlight of the entire Malerweg.

Tip: Gloves with some grip can be nice for the metal railings in colder months. Pack ample water; refills are limited on the ridges.

Affensteine & Idagrotte

The trail then threads into the Affensteine, with options to detour to caves and vantage points like the Idagrotte. In summer 2024, smoky afternoon thunderstorms rolled past as I sat on a ledge here, watching shafts of light punch through onto the Elbe plains – one of those scenes that explain why this is called the Painters’ Way.

This area is a magnet for adventurous hikers and climbers. Families with sure-footed teens often love it; younger kids may find the ladders intimidating. For a 14 leg itinerary for Malerweg Trail, I sometimes break this into two shorter days, overnighting at a hut or guesthouse near the ridges to soak up the atmosphere.

Safety: In wet weather, the rocks and wooden steps can be slick. Take your time; this is not a place to rush just to “make distance.”

Leg 5 – Affensteine to Lichtenhain Waterfall & Kuhstall: Fairy Tale Gorges

After the vertiginous drama of the Schrammsteine, Leg 5 feels more intimate and storybook-like: Lichtenhainer Wasserfall, narrow forest lanes, and the famous Kuhstall rock arch.

Lichtenhain Waterfall

The Lichtenhain waterfall is small by world standards, but it has a quirky charm. Historically, innkeepers controlled its flow with a gate and would “switch it on” for tourists in the 19th century. This ritual continues at set times in high season, and yes, it’s touristy – but watching kids’ faces light up as the water suddenly roars a bit louder is part of the fun.

There’s a gaststätte right next to the falls, and I’ve lost count of how many bowls of soup I’ve eaten on its terrace during rainy hikes. In 2025 they were doing a very decent lentil soup and a good Bockwurst with potato salad.

Kuhstall Rock Arch & Himmelsleiter

A short but steep climb leads to the Kuhstall, one of the largest rock arches in the region. Legend says locals once hid their cattle here during wartime; today it’s a playground for children and adults who like feeling small under giant stone ceilings.

Don’t miss the Himmelsleiter (“stairway to heaven”), a narrow rock chimney with steps chiseled inside, leading to a tight opening and a ledge above the arch. It’s slightly claustrophobic but worth it for the view – and the sense of emerging into another world.

Family-friendly: This leg is fantastic with kids: short distances between “wow” moments, caves to explore, and lots of legends to tell.

Leg 6 – Neumannmühle to Großer Winterberg & Schmilka: Forest Highways

This stretch feels like cruising along a forested mountain road: long, steady gradients, deep spruce and beech woods, occasional wide views. It’s less obviously spectacular than Bastei or Schrammsteine, but it gives the Malerweg its rhythm.

Neumannmühle & Kirnitzschtal

Neumannmühle is a historic mill in the Kirnitzschtal valley, where a vintage yellow tram trundles along the road – one of the most charming pieces of local infrastructure. I’ve often used the tram to skip or repeat sections when guiding mixed-ability groups, turning this leg into an easy day or a longer push depending on energy levels.

There’s a small visitor center and a simple inn here; it’s a great coffee stop or an overnight if you’re stretching the route to 12–14 legs.

Großer Winterberg Summit

The climb to Großer Winterberg (556 m) is steady rather than brutal. At the top you’ll find an inn and a terrace with views reaching into the Czech Republic. In autumn 2023, I sat here with a dark local beer watching a band of mist sit stubbornly in the Elbe valley while the ridges basked in sun – a textbook Inversionswetter moment.

Descent to Schmilka

The descent to Schmilka is one of my favorite “approach shots” on the trail. The forest opens up, the Elbe appears far below, and the red roofs of the village peek through the trees.

Schmilka is a tiny, eco-minded riverside village near the Czech border. Over the past decade it’s become a kind of bohemian base camp: organic bakery, craft brewery, vegetarian-friendly restaurants, and a general sense that everyone here has recently been in the forest or on the rocks.

Romantic: Schmilka after dark feels like the set of a small European indie film: candlelit terraces, the river sliding by in the shadows, the murmur of hikers swapping stories.

Leg 7 – Schmilka to Gohrisch, Papststein & Pfaffenstein: Table Mountain Trio

Crossing to the north side of the Elbe, the Malerweg begins to loop homeward. This leg is all about the table mountains – flat-topped sandstone mesas that dominate the skyline. The trio of Gohrisch, Papststein, and Pfaffenstein offers some of the most rewarding short climbs on the entire route.

Schöna & Elbe Ferry

From Schmilka you take a ferry or train across/along the Elbe, often via Schöna, then pick up the Malerweg as it heads towards the table mountains. The ferries, in my mind, are part of the romance of Malerweg – like short river crossings on a long driving route, they break the rhythm and reset your sense of scale.

Gohrisch & Papststein

Gohrisch and Papststein are modest climbs (with some steps and railings) that reward you with sweeping 360° views. I like to tackle them in late afternoon, when the light is warm and the distant Bastei and Lilienstein glow. In 2022 I watched a family from Prague celebrate a grandmother’s 80th birthday on Papststein – she’d climbed slowly but steadily, leaning on a stick, and when she reached the top her grandchildren produced a thermos of hot chocolate and a tiny cake.

Pfaffenstein & Barbarine Rock Needle

Pfaffenstein is perhaps my favorite of the three. The ascent is varied – forest paths, steps, narrow rock lanes – and at the top you’ll find the Barbarine, a solitary rock needle that has inspired legends and paintings for centuries. Climbing on the Barbarine is now restricted to protect it, but you can walk right up to its base and feel its strange, almost human presence.

Tip: If you’re designing a 7 or 8 leg Malerweg itinerary, you can combine these three peaks into one big day. For 11–14 legs, give yourself time to linger on each summit.

Leg 8 – Königstein Fortress, Rauenstein & Return to Pirna: History & Home Stretch

The final leg of Malerweg feels like gliding down from the highlands into civilization, with one last major highlight: the massive Königstein Fortress. It’s as if someone parked a stone aircraft carrier high above the Elbe.

Königstein Fortress

You can approach Festung Königstein directly from the Malerweg or via a short local bus. However you get there, allow at least 2–3 hours. The fortress is huge – ramparts, casemates, museums, chapels – and the views from its walls are among the best panoramas in the region.

In 2025, the fortress had expanded its exhibitions on its role in various wars and as a state prison. For families, there are interactive displays and open spaces where children can burn off leftover energy. For history buffs, it’s a feast.

Rauenstein & Obervogelgesang

The Malerweg then veers via Rauenstein, a low but rewarding ridge with classic views back towards the table mountains. It’s the equivalent of a final scenic overlook on a big road trip – a place to lean on the railing and mentally replay the journey.

From here you descend towards Obervogelgesang (yes, it really means “Upper Birdsong”), then follow riverside paths and minor roads towards Pirna. The Elbe cycle path parallels you much of the way; sometimes I envy the cyclists’ speed, but mostly I appreciate the slower pace that hiking enforces.

Back to Pirna

Finishing in Pirna feels satisfyingly circular. I usually book the same guesthouse I started in, leaving a small bag there so I can shower, change, and head straight to the square for a celebratory dinner.

On my 2025 completion, I ordered a plate of Quarkkeulchen (Saxon curd pancakes) and a glass of Riesling, then sat watching local teenagers practice skateboard tricks by the fountain while a string of hikers, dusty and tired, wandered through the streets. Each of them was somewhere between stages, physically and metaphorically.

More Notable Stops & Hidden Gems Along Malerweg

Beyond the big-ticket attractions already mentioned, there are several smaller places that continually pull me back. They’re perfect if you’re on a 10–14 legs of Malerweg Trail plan and want extra side trips.

1. Lilienstein

The Lilienstein is a distinctive table mountain rising solitary above the Elbe near Königstein. It’s technically just off the main Malerweg, but easy to add as a half-day detour. The summit plateau has several viewpoints laid out like balconies, each framing the Elbe differently.

2. Rathen’s Felsenbühne (Rock Stage)

The Felsenbühne Rathen is one of the most atmospheric open-air theatres in Europe, with the rock walls of the Wehlgrund as a natural stage set. Performances run spring to autumn; in 2026 there are several family-friendly shows (including adaptations of Karl May’s adventure novels) plus operas and concerts. Arrive by late afternoon, eat early in Rathen, and walk back under the stars.

3. Brand’s Night Sky

Staying overnight near the Brand viewpoint once in 2021, I walked out onto the terrace just before midnight. The valley was a black sea, the villages a scattering of warm dots, and above: a shockingly rich lattice of stars. Light pollution is low here; if you’re camping or staying nearby, bring a warm layer and go out late.

4. Schöna & Czech Border Feel

The village of Schöna has a faintly liminal feel, hovering near the Czech border. It’s a quiet base if you want to dip into both Saxon and Bohemian Switzerland, and it tends to be cheaper than the big-name towns. I’ve spent low-key evenings here with Czech and German hikers trading routes over beers.

5. Quiet Plateaus Above Waitzdorf

Between Waitzdorf and the Brand area are several unsigned side tracks that locals use as dog-walking and jogging routes. They’re not official Malerweg segments but give you big-sky views over rolling fields and distant rocks. Perfect for a gentle sunset stroll after a shorter hiking day.